Samsung Clp 315 Reset Firmware

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– Samsung clp-315’s reset software costs $10 USD => money saving – Reset software automatically impacts to printer firmware so printer ignores paper counter. Therefore, there is not necessary to change toner chip, you just refill toner when it runs out.

[Brian] really liked his Samsung color laser printer right up until it was time to replace the toner cartridges. A full set of toner cartridges sell for about the same price as the printer itself, so [Brian] figured he could simply refill the toner in the cartridges he already has. The printer sends out the ‘low toner’ warning based on page count and won’t print if the page count is too high, negating the economy of a toner refill kit. Luckily, [Brian] figured out a so he can use those third-party refill kits. All the configuration settings and page counts for the printer are stored on an I2C EEPROM.

After dumping the data held on this EEPROM with an Arduino and sniffing everything going into the EEPROM with a Bus Pirate, [Brian] was nearly at his wit’s end. Thankfully, serendipity intervened. When [Brian] restarted the printer with the Bus Pirate attached, he noticed it took much longer to initialize. Printing a configuration report, he was trilled to see that all page counts have been zeroed. The final hack that allows [Brian] to reset the page count and used refilled toner cartridges is a simple wire that ties the SDA line of the EEPROM to ground on boot. [Brian] used a momentary switch, but given this is a once-every-few-months operation, a simple wire would suffice.

Check out [Brian]’s page reset demo after the break. • • • • Posted in, Tagged,,, Post navigation. I’ve done something very similar for years with my samsung clp-300 (color laser). I used a simple LPT port interface and ponyprog software. As said, the printer just counts pages.

And wastes a lot of toner if i just replace the half empty cartrige. My problem was, the printer engages a writelock on the chip if the maximum capacity is reached, making it impossible to reset the chip.

At first, i solder new chips onto the tiny boards (Atmel 34c02 like the original) then i read about someone using similar chips but with a write protection pin. With that chip and engaged hardware lock the printer can not write on the chip.

That’s called a permanent chip. Last problem. The printer keeps an internal copy of the page count, so you need 2 permanent chips per cartrige, with 2 differnet serial numbers.

If one chip is “full” just swap them, and the printer resets the internal list when it sees the new serialnumber. There is no logging of serial numbers, only the current one is stored internaly. But isn’t the same for most, if not all printer?

You cab buy a new printer with new ink cartridges fit >= replacement cartridges? At Walmart at least. Something I about set to do. This has been the business model for some time.

I know I’m not privy to the manufactures facts, and figures, but it doesn’t make sense. The only thing that makes sense is that they ar making a butt load off both the printer, and ink. Why would hackers complain? End up with a functional printer, an overflowing junk box. Yea it would be nice to see a lower retail price for both printers, and replacement ink, but that ain’t going to happen.

Not as long as stock holders are a corporation’s first priority not the customers, and employees. I have a samsung clp 325,which,as most of you will know,requires almost a second mortgage to pay for replacement toner cartridges. The alternative to this expense is to buy a replacement toner kit minus the chips. Why minus the chips? I here you say.

Because it’s a monetary outlay that is not realy necessary,all I did was gaffer tape over the four sets of prongs behind the front casing and prevent communication between the chips and the motherboard. Of course red flashing lights become an issue but I can live with that knowing I can get the maximum use of all the powder that remains in the cartridge with no waste.

Worked a treat for me. Hey, I have the CLP-315W and attempted this. With the slightly different configuration I did the suggestion above where I simply grounded using a screw. Everything was going great and then after the prolonged startup, the red light (of death) came on.

I attempted a few more times to no avail. Every time I started the printer and attempted the hack, I would get the red light.

At one point, I accidentally let up on the button DURING the startup sequence. Now it won’t even go through the sequence. I get the RLOD after a few clicks. I can’t use it at all, and though the wireless light is blue, the network no longer detects the printer. Did I brick my printer or does anyone have any troubleshooting suggestions?